Blog

TGOEAST – Dalwhinnie to St. Cyrus

What is the TGO East?

We love the TGO challenge here at Ultralight, it’s an event that has been running for over 40 years. People from around the world come to Scotland to conquer its terrain from east to west. In a self-support coast to coast walk that exposes you to the majesty of Scotland. In 2026 they introduced the TGO Challenge East…

The TGO Challenge East is designed for those who don’t have as much experience, confidence or time to take on the full challenge. This turned out to be the perfect challenge for me, as having two young children at home, getting two weeks away would be a big ask.

Unlike the traditional challenge, all the routes are preset by the lovely people at TGO Control. Each has been made for ‘Easters’ to experience what makes the challenge so enjoyable. So, if you want a route focussing on Munros and tops or the more easy-going social side they’ll have a route for you.

The challenge start points are pretty much all situated along the A9 which, thankfully, has an abundance of train stops and bus routes, so, getting to your starting point is relatively easy. Route options can be viewed on the TGO site. You can get an idea of what each route offers and gauge which may be the best option for you!

Day 0 – Fear and Loathing in Dalwhinnie – 5 Miles

Getting to my start point was simple. Hop on a train at Darlington, ride that all the way to Edinburgh then a quick swap to the ScotRail line from Edinburgh to Dalwhinnie. Straight forward, no hassle. It’s an enjoyable train ride that really gets you in the mood as you head into the highlands. (Fun fact: When on the train to Dalwhinnie you cross over the highest piece of railway line in the country at the Pass of Drumochter! This trainline reaches an altitude of 1480 feet or 452 meters for the metric users.)

Along the way I was joined by some TGO’ers who, while not participating officially, were linking up with some friends in Aviemore. I was regaled with tales from TGOs past including using the bin of a tractor to cross an especially fast river, late night sing-a-longs in Ballater and crossing moorland in kilts and having to remove ticks from delicate regions.

Arriving in Dalwhinnie and saying goodbye for now to my train companions, I disembarked and made my way to The Apiary a nearby cafe for a quick bite to eat and a drink before setting off on my journey to my first camp spot of the challenge. I got talking to a few people in the café who were on the main TGO Challenge and who I would meet numerous times throughout my journey across Scotland.

Refreshed I set off to my first camp spot of the challenge, heading down the A889 I passed by the Dalwhinnie sign, and I was surprised to see that Dalwhinnie is twinned with Las Vegas of all places! After grabbing a quick pic, I moved on heading a little bit out of the village, crossing the River Truim on the first of many bridges.

Walking alongside a viaduct, I could see what tomorrow had in store for me. Ever present in the distance, looming on the horizon were the tops of Bogha-cloiche, Meall Chuaich and Meall Odhar Mor.  Feeling a buzz of excitement and nerves, I couldn’t wait to take them on.

Following the viaduct on a maintenance track I finally arrived at my camp spot for the night at Loch Cuaich. Pitched up, stove on and a brew on the go I settled in for the night taking in the sheer beauty of the loch and the surrounding hills that I would become familiar with quite quickly.

Day 1 – All the weather, All the time. – 14 Miles

I woke with a buzz, ready to take on the day and get the first day under my belt. Oh boy was this a challenge.

Packing down after a hearty breakfast and a quick phone call home, I set off. Taking a track that steadily led me up into the valley finishing at a small vehicle turning point. From then I had to follow a well-hidden stalkers path that zig-zagged upwards, accompanied on each side by heather. At this point the rain started, light, so, nothing to worry about. Following the path, I managed to get onto the ridge. While being passed by a group of challengers who briefly stopped to chat, the rain grew heavy and we needed to move on. I continued my original path breaking off from the group.

Surprisingly, I was caught in a snowstorm of all things. My vision was greatly impacted and being a novice in this kind of situation, I decided to double back on myself and take my foul weather alternative which while it added a few more miles on my day. I’d rather take the extra miles than getting caught out on my first day. As soon as I made my descent (by sliding down on my backside) the sun decided to make an appearance which made things very hot, very quickly.

The number of times I had to remove and put back on my waterproof and layers was ridiculous. I expected wind and rain not Siberian tundras followed by Spanish sunshine, topped off by stiff, Scottish winds.

Now at a low altitude I decided to go down further to the stream Allt Na Fearna to grab some water. Oh boy was that a mistake. After my refill I realised my error. The climb back onto the path was pretty much impossible unless I fancied scrambling through heather bushes, which I didn’t. So, I decided to follow the stream to an easier climb back onto the path, hopping back and forth over the stream like a mad frog.

Climbing back onto the path and thoroughly knackered, I made my way along an overgrown ATV track walking on what I thought was lush green grass. Cut to me, submerged up to my waist in a bog. I clamber out wet and now terrified of the ground beneath my feet. Yet I soldiered on, swearing under my breath calling myself numerous expletives, suddenly *fwomp* once again, waist deep in a bog.

Rising out of the bog like the Creature of the Black Lagoon, I trudged across the moorland. I was lovingly greeted by the sight of the dam at the mouth of Loch an t-Seilich. I ran down the hill happy to have my feet on solid track once again, not having to guess if that patch of grass is solid and not another trip into the bog.

I crossed the dam and carried along the track taking in the views along the way. I was surprised to see people working along the track. I must have been a funny sight walking towards them, perhaps giving the impression that I’ve made my way from the east coast when really, I’ve just popped along from down the road…

Trudging down the track I started to feel a sense of accomplishment as the ordeal I put myself through, would have put off most people, but being stubborn helped for once! I arrived at my camping spot for the night, the rain started to come in, and the wind didn’t help either, so, I opted to camp under(ish) the bridge which made a nifty windbreak.

All pitched up, I ate my evening meal and got my head down for the night hoping the wind would dry out my bog-water-laden trousers.

Day 2 – The Pie Man Cometh – 17 Miles

Waking up early and surprisingly refreshed, I took things easy, not rushing myself as to no one’s surprise, I was quite sore after yesterday’s shenanigans.

Packed up, breakfast eaten and a quick cuppa to quench my thirst, I walked out from under the bridge, like some sort of gorp-core troll. Thankfully I wasn’t confronted by three billy goats.

The day greeted me with a grey overcast sky and a lovely headwind as I marched up the track, climbing 500ft in the first 2 miles. I really can’t do the surroundings any justice with my descriptions of how fantastical and otherworldly they were, it really invoked the imagery of Tolkien and other high fantasy novels. Passing Lochan an t-Sluic, I descended to the shores of the River Feshie, which was surprisingly quite low given the amount of rainfall over the past week. While debating to take my alternative path which would add a good 5-6 miles onto my day. I was joined by a fellow challenger, Tom, who convinced me that the river was fordable and offered to guide me across. Well, in for a penny in for a pound!

Into the river we go! My god was it cold. Taking it easy, I made sure I had good footing on the rocks while the river ran against us. It felt as though I was constantly pushing against a door trying to keep myself upright, I didn’t bring my speedos, so having a full-on swim was out of the question. In the end, we managed to make it across with little difficulty. Tom congratulated me on my first river crossing and joined me on the trail that followed the river for a few miles, until he split off on his own path. Thank you, Tom!

Following a path, I made a slight error and missed the right path, which was obstructed by foliage, I found myself back at another point on the Feshie. It was very fast here, and no way could I cross it, so I doubled back on myself and found my originally intended path and that’s where I had my first encounter with Mike the pie man. Mike is a real character and was a great companion on the long stretch across the tops to Red House Bothy, telling me about his previous crossings and where to go for a good pint in Braemar.

Back on track, I made a narrow crossing over a waterfall and while it may not look like much in the photo, navigating over a narrow path barely wide enough for my foot while hugging the wall was certainly a nervous moment! After avoiding becoming another statistic, I followed the track further into the valley, taking in the epic scenery and having a little break in the rain. Mike caught up to me. We got chatting about the challenge and our adventures, I joined mike for the last leg of the day’s journey. A highlight was crossing a bridge aptly named by Mike the “BRIDGE OF DEATH” or also known as Eidart Bridge. Just look at it!

Suspended over a gorge, this bridge is really something to be experienced. The views of and from the bridge are spellbinding. But, crossing it is something else. My advice is don’t look down.

After crossing the bridge, the rest of the day was a breeze. We followed a 4x4 track that follows Geldie Burn down to Red House Bothy.

Upon arrival I headed inside to see it full of fellow challengers, cyclists and hikers. With no bunk available, the remaining option was to camp outside and thankfully the grounds surrounding the bothy were the perfect pitch.

Day 3 - Braemar or Bust – 12 Miles

Camping outside the bothy ended up being a great decision, speaking to some of the bothy inhabitants, it became apparent that they had one or two noisy snorers.

After breakfast, I packed down and set off for Braemar. Following a track for much of the way, I stopped for a while when I got signal and made phone calls home updating family and friends on my progress.

I enjoyed the sunshine while making my way to Braemar it made a difference from the previous two days of constant wind and rain. I’d be a happy man if I had a couple of days break from the rain...

Mar Lodge was up next, a popular rest point for challengers where free tea, coffee and biscuits are on offer which made it even more tempting. I was joined by Onno who I got talking to at Red House Bothy and Mike from Aberdeen who made great company.

As a trio we arrived at Mar Lodge, it must have been a sight to behold for the people who were getting ready for a wedding. Dressed in sharp dark blue suits and kilts and enjoying a pre-ceremony drink was a stark contrast to us three rocking up, sweaty, dirty and not coming anywhere close to wedding attire.

Enjoying a much-needed rest with numerous cups of tea and biscuits. I set back off on the path alone to Braemar after putting my name on the whiteboard.

The weather held and the rest of my journey was pleasant (apart from the 13% gradient hill, God, that was awful). Keeping a steady pace, I arrived in Braemar by 3pm and immediately went into the nearest corner shop to acquire some cans of Tennant’s to enjoy at camp.

I camped at Braemar caravan park which is a popular point for TGO Challengers and I can see why. Having a shower and being clean again was simply divine. After a bite to eat and a couple of drinks I headed into town to meet up with my UOG colleague Ben who was also participating in the TGO East.

Day 4 – A Bothy Fit for A Queen – 9 Miles

Power banks charged, a quick resupply and a breakfast that could have cured me of any aches or pains - I was ready to take on the day.

I popped to a shop to get a gift for my eldest daughter, with my companion on board I set off to Gelder Shiel Bothy.

The weather was patchy at best. Today it varied from sunshine to torrential rain. Typical. Heading off into the forest, I spotted three, yes, three red squirrels! I took this as a positive sign for the day as I ventured further into the forest.

On the first ridge of the day, I was gifted some truly beautiful scenery; the beauty of Scotland is hard to beat. Wherever you turn, you’re presented with some spectacular views that will be permanently etched into your memory.

After descending back down the trail, I followed the River Dee for a few miles. Thankfully the trees made ample coverage for the rain to make its return. The hailstones however were a different story.

I soldiered on, passing Connachat Cottage in the pine forest. The trees give way onto open ground. I finally reached Gelder Sheil Bothy.

What a bothy! Surronded with trees with a fast-flowing stream, you couldn’t think of a more idyllic place to end a long day’s walking. Fully stocked with firewood, the bothy soon filled up with challengers and there was a couple of familiar faces. We got to chatting and enjoyed some drinks before everyone sooner or later turned in for the night.

Day 5 – It Can Wait till Tomorrow – 9.5 Miles

I was up and out early as today’s journey was a real mixed bag of peaks and troughs.

Setting off, I had to double back on myself to reach the track that would take me to my next camp spot. I was soon joined by Mike and Beckah who camped at Gelder Shiel. We walked as a trio until our paths diverged into separate directions. We said our goodbyes and wished each other luck on our journeys.

It’s surreal, the few moments you all share on your journeys, talking about what path you have taken and what you’ve experienced really builds a strong sense of comradery and community. When the inevitable happens and you all separate, you do genuinely feel gutted to be alone again, but such is life!

I continued, ascending Clas Rathadan. I was given some hope that today would be a cool, overcast one. I was sadly mistaken. As I reached the top of the track, the heavens opened.

This made my descent even more difficult as it seemed the track leading down to The Spittal of Glenmuick was laden with the bulkiest, loosest stones imaginable. So, adding rain into the equation was a recipe for tired legs and very sore ankles. I took some refuge at the rangers station while the rain passed. Once the worst of the weather passed, I continued my journey climbing back into the hills using the very faint Allt Darrarie. Some guessing work is needed at first with this path, but it becomes clearer the further back up hill you get. I eventually made it to the Shielin of Mark bothy after clambering over tricky terrain and the odd hop or two. I opted to stay a while, waiting for some sensation to return to my legs thanks to the cold whipping winds and yes, you guessed it. Rain.

After a good sit, tea, and a meal the rain showed no sign of letting up and I was informed by my other challengers in the bothy, that getting a decent pitch in this weather at the Stables of Lee would be difficult, let alone making it over Muckle Cairn.

I relented and decided to treat myself to a night in the bothy. Looking back on this decision, I think my tent would have been warmer! But i’m certainly glad I took their advice onboard as the rain and wind only got worse. Muckle Cairn can wait till tomorrow.

Day 6 – Liam Nags About the Wind and Rain: A Memoir – 11.5 Miles

Awakening from my icy tomb, I was the polar opposite of the hungry caterpillar. The nights “rest” did nothing to help my sore back and limbs, but this was soon alleviated by a course of porridge, tea, paracetamol and ibuprofen.

I picked myself up knowing that I had an additional 3 miles on todays journey. I crossed over the Water of Mark and onto the very wet and very boggy ground of Muckle Cairn.

Some people in the morning may go for a 5k, or a strenuous gym session to kick start the day. Climbing 300ft in the wind and rain (yes, I know, more rain, I’m just surprised as you are) is not what I’d choose as a morning.

Making my way over Muckle Cairn was a slog to be honest, but I powered on thanks to following the path of a fellow challenger. Once on the top, I was greeted with a track! I very wet, very rocky track that proved to be more of a hinderance than help!

I came to my original intended camping spot for the night before The Stables of Lee. While I did appreciate that they cleaned the stables, I think the lingering smell would have affected my night’s sleep. There’s a reason “Horse Stable” isn’t a popular choice of scented candle.

After a quick rest, I made my way further down the track until I nearly needed to change my pants. Two reindeer bounded out of the foliage beside the track I was on. While beautiful seeing these magnificent creatures as the made there way off down the stream below, a loud expletive was said. I think they didn’t appreciate what I called them, but I’ll leave that up to you.

Continuing with much walking, I passed Jonny Gordon’s Bothy and some beautiful views, which, even the wind and rain couldn’t stop me from appreciating. I reached the Water of Lee.

To my shock and absolute horror the clouds parted revealing a blue sky and a weird bright orb. This phenomenon needs to be studied further as it seems its rare as gold in Scotland.

The walk along the loch was a pleasant one the path had nicely levelled out, and I didn’t need to contend with slippery, rocky surfaces anymore. If you’re ever in the area treat yourself to a walk beside the Water of Lee, you won’t regret it.

Moving on just past the loch I passed by the remains of Invermark Castle. Standing strong today as it did back when it was built in the 16^th century.

Nearing the end of my day all I needed to do was navigate a farmer’s field or two and stay on track, I’ll be in Tarfside in no time.

The sky darkened, a vicious wind starts blasting me in the face almost as if I was holding a leaf blower to it. My old friends wind and rain had made there return from their interval and the show was now on. Perfect way to finish my day - Soaked through.

Following the track up and over rolling hills and tree lined avenues, I arrived at a crossroads. A sign greeted me, it pointed to St. Drostan’s, “TGO Challengers welcome”, if I know my signs, this was a good one.

In the warm of the kitchen, I was catered to by the kind volunteers of St. Drostan’s. Bacon and Egg butty, slice of cake, a cup of tea and apple later, I was full and slightly drier. Not a bad combination.

I got squared up and headed to the village green. I pitched up with a fantastic view looking up to West Knock and Cowie Hill. In Tarfside if your lucky the local Masons put on a BBQ and have a bar with all the profits going to charity. But I opted to get an early night. I was simply too tired from the past two day’s walking so I made some phone calls home for updates and laid my head down for sleep.

Day 7 – Long Road to Edzell – 17 Miles

My body and mind were grateful for the early night; I woke to a magnificent blue sky dotted with white clouds and, even better, the weather forecast touted a clear day. Perfect!

I nipped into the Glenesk Folk Museum and Café for breakfast after packing up. Where, once again, a big greasy sandwich with a cup of tea cured all my ailments.

Everything seemed to be going my way today! Most of the day was downhill, great! Also, on tarmac, not so great. But I marched onward. A day like this is the perfect opportunity to lookback on my journey and take stock of what I’ve experienced.

To experience this yourself, please re-read the trip report.

After many miles on road, track and field with many, many bridges (who doesn’t love a good bridge eh?). Passing the Rocks of Solitude (It wouldn’t surprise me if there was a 70’s prog rock band named the same thing), I soon found myself walking through the blue door, being serenaded by Prince’s Purple Rain. That made opening a door quite epic to be honest.

My path took me by a farmer’s field that was quite overgrown, I had to make my way through vast amounts of foliage. I must have appeared to be some sort of sasquatch or hedge botherer to the very confused looking cows.

The rest of the day’s walk went well without any trouble; I do warn you that the road leading to North Water Bridge is possibly the longest road in human history. Well, it felt that way.

Making it to the caravan park which was quickly filling up with fellow challengers. I paid for my pitch, got set up and had a very long shower. I came out positively glowing.

Day 8 – Hit the Coast – 8.5 Miles

I set out early once again so I can spend more time sat down at a pub with a nice pint at the end of my final day.

The rain reappeared but as a refreshing mist, how could I finish my challenge without ol’ faithful rain joining me? I made good pace to St. Cyrus; it did involve pretty much entirely road walking. But when walking through the town I had people congratulating me on completing my challenge, having been stopped often for a chat about my journey.

I came out to the cliff edge, overlooking the sand and the sea that stretched on for what could be forever as it matched the sky in hue. I’ve never seen the North Sea look so appealing, its waves gently lapping against the sand welcoming me to itself saying “Come on lad, not much further now”.

I made my way down the cliff path; every step greeted me with a little more sand until I reached the beach. The hard ground carried me to the lapping waters of the North Sea where I stood letting the water embrace my shoes. I’ve done it.

Liam Hollinshead
When he’s not fixing computers or sorting out I.T issues, you can find Liam in and around the North Yorkshire Moors and the Dales. He is currently completing the Cleveland Way section by section and plans to take on the English Coast to Coast. Read more from Liam Hollinshead