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Day 8 Balquhidder to Meall Odhar

• Friday 16 May
• Distance 22.4km
• Elevation 639m

I woke to glorious sunshine beating down on the tent. Keen not to hang around in the tick infested glade too long, I quickly packed up and headed out without breakfast with the intention of stopping somewhere along the track and after about 3km I found a clear stream just off the track and a large bench, perfect to set up my stove, filter some water and make my porridge and coffee. I was soon joined by a couple who I’d met the previous day, and they were not expecting to see me again as I had passed them, moving quicker than they were. We walked from the breakfast bench and chatted. He was French and didn’t speak much English and she was Swiss and spoke excellent English and when she spoke in French I could understand her, but his French replies were a little quick for me to comprehend, so there was a fair bit of translation going on. Slowly, I increased my pace, and their voices became a distant sound. I ignored the signs to Lochearnhead despite it looking very picturesque. I was fed and watered and the one-mile detour seemed unnecessary, but a note to self to return in the future.

As the path headed along Glen Ogle, with its stunning rocky outcrops I was joined by some runners who said it was a bit hot for hiking with a backpack – it was certainly too hot for running! As the track veered to join the A85 a beautiful lochan appeared through the trees on the left – Lochan Lairig Cheile had a shallow beach, an ideal entry into the water to dip the feet. I sat for a while and watched the ducks as they brought their ducklings to show me and enjoyed the crumbs I was willing to share. After a little while the Swiss/French couple arrived and we discussed our next move. I was crossing the road and climbing up through the steep sided forest, whereas they were staying on the side of the road and closing their day in Killin.

Despite being steep, my climb was kind on the feet as the little used track was covered in grass and soft underfoot. The trees again offered welcome shade and the views as I got higher became vast and wide reaching in all directions.  I could see Loch Tay in the distance - this would be my destination tomorrow.
As the last of the trees dispersed and the track entered the open moor, there was little opportunity for water and I became acutely aware that I had drunk all my water on the climb, this was now my priority, as there was no shade and the temperature was still high. The streams were dry. I was heading for the dam at Lochan Brenlaich, hoping for a nice wild camping spot by the water, but on approach access restrictions prevented me getting to the water’s edge. The water level was also very low, and the overflow was dry. I decided to press on a little further, eyes and ears on full alert for any sign of water! I eventually found my oasis, a trickling stream through some grasses. I filtered a bottle, and it didn’t hit the sides. I repeated this another twice before I quenched my thirst. I refilled and carried an extra litre for use overnight. I could now concentrate on finding a nice spot to set up camp. About a further 2km as I crested the track just below Meall Odher, with its rocky outcrops I found a lovely grassy spot sheltered from the freshening breeze, surrounded by heather and bilberry bushes. A few curious sheep gave me a watchful eye, and ewes bleated at their lambs to stay away. The views were vast and stunning and as the sun set, the shadows grew longer. All was calm as darkness fell. I felt very small in a very large landscape!

Day 9 Meall Odhar to Ardtalnaig (Loch Tay)

• Saturday 17 May
• Distance 11.6km
• Elevation 121m

Another warm and calm start to the day, wall to wall sunshine! I feel blessed!

Today is a ‘rest’ day. Not a total rest – but a chilled start and a short 12km walk down to Loch Tay. A stop at the 350-year-old, Ardeonaig Hotel for a pot of tea and shortbread biscuit got me chatting with two couples who said another challenger had literally just left, what are the chances! They said the guy had set off from Oban and had walked directly from Killin that morning, so our paths had not crossed and wouldn’t. I only had a short walk following the south shore of Loch Tay to Holly Cottage where I had booked a pod. The couples took some convincing that I was comfortable wild camping on my own, a very alien concept to them, I guess we are all different.

I was greeted at Holly Cottage by Rosemary and Tikka the labrador. I was escorted through their beautiful garden to one of two pods that looked out to the Loch. Two freshly baked scones with butter and jam were a very welcoming touch and delicious! The fridge was well stocked with fresh fruit, milk and juice. There was also a good selection of cereals and yoghurt for breakfast and endless supply of tea and coffee. The pod was very well equipped and much more homely than other pods I have stayed in. I took advantage of the hot sunshine to do some essential laundry, charge devices and then headed to the Loch in search of beavers.

Day 10 Ardtalnaig to Aberfeldy

• Sunday 18 May
• Distance 29.9km
• Elevation 590m

Rosemary brought me a fresh croissant to accompany my breakfast and a packed lunch I had requested as an optional extra. What arrived was more like a mini-hamper, served in a wee basket. I’d highly recommend anyone staying there. My packed lunch consisted of 2 large, seeded bread buns, and assortment of meats, slices of cheddar and brie, pickles, coleslaw, nuts, flapjack, chocolate biscuit, banana, apple and satsuma. I would dine out on this for the next few days! I was saying my goodbyes to Rosemary when I heard the familiar tip-tap, tip-tap of trekking poles. I looked up and saw two familiar bucket hats bobbing above the hedge accompanied by two high packs. Yes, my European friends had had an early start from Killin and had stayed on the loch side rather than taking the high route of the Rob Roy Way.

Today’s route started along an undulating single-track road. The legs felt fresh, and my feet recovered. Yesterday’s rest day and some good food made a big difference. The track took a sharp right at Achern and a prolonged but beautiful climb followed the Falls of Achern for about a kilometer bringing us to about 300m above the loch. Still following the Rob Roy Way, the track headed east, rising and falling with the land, a mix of arable farm land, grazing and forestry both natural and large commercial operations. On the approach to Aberfeldy there were route choices. I had been recommended to visit the ‘Birks of Aberfeldy’, I took this higher, slightly longer option. The ravine with its powerful waterfalls was impressive and powerful. Lush new leaves on the trees were catching the light of the afternoon sunshine. The descent, on wooden walkways and ladders and bridges, continued to offer different vistas at every turn all the way down to the town. A stop at Fika café in the square for a refreshing drink was just what I needed before heading to the campsite to receive my final food parcel.

Once pitched and showered, I headed back into town to get some food and witness for myself the impact beavers have had on the area since they were introduced in 2009, and hopefully see one for myself, but to no avail! The evidence was clear, with gnawed trees, and abandoned dams.

My route plan for the final few days would get me to Forfar on Thursday, leaving my last day of around 30km to get to Arbroath, and return to Montrose by 5pm. I doubted my ability to do this mileage in the time allowed and really didn’t welcome the time pressure on what should be a joyous day to celebrate my achievements. So, I hatched a plan to increase my mileage over the next few days to get closer to Arbroath on Thursday, leaving me a shorter hop to the sea on my last day.

Day 11 Aberfeldy to Pitcarmick Loch

• Monday 19 May
• Distance 28.3km
• Elevation 547m

After sharing my breakfast with the ever so friendly ducks at the campsite in Aberfeldy, I was just finishing packing when I heard familiar voices calling from the gate. It was the French/Swiss duo on their final leg of the Rob Roy Way, heading up to Pitlochry. We said our goodbye’s as my route was heading in a different direction today.

My day was split in two halves, divided by the A9. The morning being flat, following the River Tay on the riverside path to Grandtully, past the standing stone (just a single stone in the middle of a field) and onto sections of old railway lines that came and disappeared without a trace, overtaken by rampant foliage or incorporated into farmed field networks, with only the odd rampart as evidence of their historic existence. I decided that the backroad to Balnamuir was a better option. Then crossed the Rivers Tay and Tummel in quick succession, as the two merged at this point and across the A9 to Ballinluig in good time for lunch. However, it being a Monday, the café that I’d seen signs for on the approach to the village was closed, as was the hotel! I was directed to a truckstop! Not what I had envisaged, but the tuna sandwich was fully loaded and the tea hot… basic needs satisfied.

The afternoon route ramped uphill straight from the back of the closed hotel, before joining a narrow access road leading to a few grand properties, hidden behind walled gardens and a couple of farmsteads. The final farm had some beautifully renovated cottages and two shepherd’s huts along the track heading out onto the open moor and lots of sheep. After a couple of miles, I reached some sheep pens and a real shepherd’s hut, designed to be a place of shelter, it served my needs well to shelter from the fresh wind while I made a brew and filtered water from the stream before heading upwards again to a beautifully renovated stone wall that stretched for miles in both directions. After crossing the wall, the path crested, bringing Lochan Oisinneach-mor into view. This was originally going to be my destination for today, but in an attempt to claw back a bit of time for Friday, I would take the opportunity to plod on. The evening temperature was perfect for walking and the breeze had subsided. The next few kilometres were clearly waymarked though narrow ribbons of path, hidden under bilberry bushes. Trekking poles were of little use as they kept getting snagged, but I kept them to hand as the path was uneven and unpredictable, and my concentration was less sharp as tiredness and hunger set in. Eventually I reached a more major track that hooked me round the hill and as I started to descend towards Pitcarmick Loch I spotted a ‘Bella-sized’ grassy patch with some stacked rocks suitably positioned for my stove. The views were stunning as the sun set behind my tent, and I hoped I had orientated it well for the morning sunrise. I treated myself to a dessert tonight as a reward for the day’s extra effort.

Day 12 Pitcarmick Loch to Little Bamff

• Tuesday 20 May
• Distance 27.3km
• Elevation 519m

The morning sun welcomed me again and there is nothing nicer than opening the door to the fly and letting the light in.
After descending from the loch, I joined the Cateran Trail with its love heart markers. The grassy tracks were lovely to walk on and kind to the feet. Lush glades and ancient woodlands were home to a bevy of deer who didn’t seem to mind me sharing their space. Arriving at Bridge of Cally, the beer garden was filled with backpackers walking the Cateran Trail in the opposite direction, however they broke the news that the pub was shut and they were merely using the tables for their picnic, so I did too! Upon leaving the tiny village, I spotted the post office and village store and decided to take a look for a cold drink. The owner apologised for the low stock levels as they were retiring after 22 years, but I found a cold drink and got some shortbread for the road.

Continuing on the Cateran Trail it headed straight in an easterly direction through farms and on drove roads hedged on both sides. As the miles clocked up I considered my overnight options and as I was approaching a wooded area, I thought this could offer a shady spot. However, as I turned to enter the woods, the sign read ‘You are entering Bamff Wildland – free-ranging cattle, pigs and ponies’ – Well that’s a game-changer! I walked on through on full alert, feeling like I was in a safari park with lions and tigers and bears ready and waiting! After passing a bizarre pink castle within the park, the track turned along a stream where another sign read ‘beavers at work’ – they certainly had been very busy - the next couple of kilometres were evident of their construction techniques and habitats but they were not in residence as far as I could see. By the time I exited the Wildland area I was desperate to find somewhere to bed down and the wooded entrance to a walking trail offered an area of rough grass that I thought ‘that’ll do!’ I only saw one couple, with a dog, who went for a walk and came back with handfulls of firewood and they wished me a good night’s sleep after discussing my walk that day.

Day 13 Little Bamff to Forfar

• Wednesday 21 May
• Distance 28km
• Elevation 278m

With three fields full of sheep, a cuckoo, an owl and a cockerel as neighbours, the day started pretty early! I didn’t feel refreshed from my disturbed sleep and the thought of porridge again didn’t inspire me either. I decided to have a cereal bar and crack on, hoping my mood would improve with some activity. Little did I know that about 4km along the road towards Loch of Lintranthen, I stumbled across Peel Farm – farm shop and café. Well, it was meant to be! My mood instantly improved, and I enjoyed an amazing breakfast of scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on sourdough toast washed down with a huge mug of rich coffee.

Feeling revived I set off by-passing the loch in favour of taking a woodland cut through past the old School and little used road to Kirkton of Kingoldrum, with fields of cattle with their young on both sides of the road, which rampaged to follow me and escort me off their patch!

Arriving in the village, I came across a sign outside a cottage on the bridge welcoming TGO walkers to knock on the door for a hot or cold drink. How could I resist! Elspeth and Geoff greeted me and welcomed me into their kitchen for a cup of tea and a slice of fresh rhubarb cake that Elspeth had just baked on the Aga. Last year a challenger had collapsed outside their cottage, so not wanting a repeat they decided to offer hospitality to needy souls (and soles). They were very keen to know my route to the end and shared some local knowledge for my approach to Forfar. We also discussed the wide-reaching effects of beavers. Their garden had been stripped by the beavers, using timber for their dams. They had even decked a telegraph pole!

A few kilometres later as I turned onto a remote track heading towards Loch of Kinnordy, I saw an elderly gentleman leaning against a gate. He asked if the track I had come down led to the loch. I removed my paper map from my pack and showed him where we were and where the loch was. He had missed a turn and had carried on for about a mile. I noticed he had blood on his nose and lip and he told me he had stumbled and fallen on the uneven ground. I said I’d walk back with him but as we started walking, I soon realised this was going to take some time. He was very uneasy on his feet, so I offered him my trekking pole and I took his arm, determined that he wasn’t going to have another fall, not on my watch! We chatted - Peter was 87 years old, lived alone and no one knew he was out. He had no phone, nor did he have the phone number of his son, who lived locally but was at work. It was a few hours since he had set off, without food or water, so I shared my water and gave him some snacks and as we got a little closer to the town of Kirriemuir I realised I would need some help to get him home and cared for, so I sat him on my pack and rang the emergency services. About half an hour later three police officers came along the path and assisted with getting him back to the road, where they were going to get him back home. The police officer asked where I was heading and I said Forfar, he offered me a lift, but in the true spirit of TGO I politely declined. As I left Kirriemuir I realised I no longer had any fluid but pressed on keen to walk the two hours or so to Forfar regardless.

I arrived in Forfar 24 hours early to find the local fairground was in full swing just opposite the entrance to the campsite and the calls to ‘scream if you want to go faster’ and the thumping Euro-beats music was far from relaxing. I retreated for a shower in a hope the shower block was somewhat sound-proof before walking into town for some food.

Day 14 Forfar to Arbroath

• Thursday 22 May
• Distance 25.7km
• Elevation 270m

My intention today was to walk just shy of Arbroath to leave a short distance to finish on the Friday, though I had not searched out a destination on the map. My neighbour, in a small lightweight tent was also a TGO challenger heading for Arbroath. He headed out while I was still packing up, but I caught up with him as he’d stopped for breakfast. My feet were very sore following the tarmac speed walk from Kirriemuir the day previous and hard surfaces were intense. I had to shorten my stride to mitigate the pain. I let the German challenger, whose name I can’t recall, walk on ahead as he was intending on finishing that day in Arbroath, whereas I was not time pressured at all.

I found some lovely tracks that deviated from the main road, some were dismantled railways, or local paths through woodland or behind private gardens and allotments. These were bliss for the feet on softer ground and peaceful away from traffic. One such path popped me out close to the centre of Letham, a sleepy village with the award-winning Keptie Bakery. The choice was vast, it took me an age to decide that I needed a sausage roll and fondant fancy - not just any old sausage roll or fondant fancy, they were special!

Tarmac was unavoidable the closer I got to the coast, and I took every opportunity to hop onto a grassy verge where I could. On a grassy junction I saw a sign that said Arbroath 10 miles and at that moment a car drew up and the driver wound his window down to ask if I was on the TGO. I replied that I was and he shouted, “Well done, you’re nearly there!” before driving off with a hoot of his horn. He was right, I was nearly there, I could see the sea in the distance. It was at that point that I decided I would finish my crossing TODAY. I became ecstatic at that thought. This lift helped ease the pressure in my feet and I embraced every step that was helping me reach the end. From the edge of Arbroath, I passed new housing estates that were stretching the town’s boundary; a park with families enjoying sunny teatime picnics and after-school play and down through the industrial old town towards the harbour and iconic Signal Tower. A picture frame nicely framed the Signal Tower and as I was taking a photograph a passerby offered to take a picture for me. Perfect timing to mark my arrival. I then headed to the beach at the harbour to get my feet wet and deploy the stone that I had carried with me from Portavadie. Job done and what a sense of achievement.

I rewarded myself with fish and chips at the Old Boatyard Restaurant before making my way up the coast to Montrose to check out with TGO control.

I was booked into the Park Hotel on Friday evening and for the Friday Finishers celebratory meal, so arriving a day early, I pitched my tent on the hotel lawn and then joined Dan and Andy, who were there for the meals and speeches on Wednesday and Thursday. It was great to meet the Thursday finishers, especially Colin and Rolf who had successfully added another crossing to their collection.
I appreciate now why people return year on year. The sense of community was fantastic, with lots of challengers wanting to hear about your journey and share theirs. Route options are endless, and I find my mind wandering to where my next crossing will take me.

Lois' TGO Challenge 2025 - Part 1

Lois' Kit List is Coming Soon.

Lois Fife
Lois is a keen cyclist and is always plotting a route… either for her next trip or looking for a different way to commute to work! She is regularly seen heading for the hills on a packed-up bike, be it for a quick overnight wild camp, or a longer multi-day adventure. She is currently plotting her route to walk the TGO across Scotland. She is a British Cycling level 2 leader and has been involved with MTB Guisborough encouraging the next generation of mountain bikers. Lois joined Ultralight Outdoor Gear in 2021 and is part of the Customer Service Team. She is always keen to get her hands on new kit to try in the field and share her findings on the website. Read more from Lois Fife